It's interesting how insignificant you can feel next to the sea. The ocean in particular is such a huge mass of unpredictability. I was relatively small when I was young. I had a crazy imagination which focused a lot on the ocean. I decided being in the water could be "safe" if i could touch the sand. Most of the time, I stayed close to shore, but would venture out when my brother was at least at a yelling distance. it was comforting to know he was nearby. Even when the waves were huge & crushed me to the ocean floor - i knew aaron had my back. I'd get slammed & he'd yell, "you cool?!" yea, i was cool...did 5 flips under water & almost died - but i'm no quitter.
One summer I learned how to surf on a gigantic long board (i say gigantic - but i think it was a normal size). I'm a pretty persistent & fast learner. It seemed i had an endless amount of energy that day. Maybe it was adrenaline...but maybe part of it was reeeeeally wanting to do what my older brother could. I had spent a lot of time fighting waves that day. At the end i was excited i could confidently stand up. I was also made very aware of the muscles I needed more of. Falling asleep that night was the best sleep I can remember. When my eyes closed, I could still feel the waves crash over my head - the ones that cause your body to move & sway. Waves have a way of making a person feel really powerless & small. But that small victory when you get slammed & stay standing is so sweet. I guess that happens w/ life too. Especially when you get hit when you least expect it. And you say, 'nice try life, i'm still standing...and i'm going to be standing tomorrow too, so suck it.'